Halk Hakydasy Memorial Complex. Ashgabat.

It was only 4 miles from the hotel, but I got myself a taxi, too freaking hot, the mercury was riding high 90's, it was 4pm. walking not an option, standing outdoors awaiting its arrival was hot enough. The journey was uneventful, shame there was no air-con. I did not pay the driver, as this was a return trip I did not want him doing a runner and leaving me stranded, no mobile phone connectivity and who would I call anyways?

Believe you me this complex is nowhere near civilisation; as with the majority of these places in Ashgabat they seem to have been plonked in the middle of nowhere, though with a dual carriageway alongside it the road journey was smooth, but boring.

Let me just get to the top of these steps and I will let you see for yourselves

"Kemosabe, he not speak with forked tongue", (if you are old you will remember!) hazy views.

The memorial complex covers 160 acres, with an ensemble of structures; a memorial complex to the honour of those killed in the Battle of Geok Tepe in 1881, those who died in World War II, and those in the 1948 Ashgabat earthquake.

I was there an hour or so, the only visitor; there were a few gardeners about the place and two guards at the Eternal Glory Memorial, there was also a guard guarding the guards, keeping his eye on me; as it is unlawful to take snaps of military personnel.

Monument Ruhy Tagzym

The design of the monument is based on an ancient Turkmen legend about a fantastic bull holding the Earth on its horns, and its bellowing sound is represented as the underground rumbles within an earthquake.

Dedicated to the 70-110 thousand victims of the 1948 Ashgabat earthquake: The exact figure is not known as the event was not widely reported due to Soviet censorship.

The bronze sculpture of a bull, mounted on a marble plinth is over 30ft in height.

It depicts a mighty bull tossing the world on its horns, with the bodies of the dead and dying desperately clinging to its circumference

Whilst on top a mother with her last desperate movements saving her baby, lifting it over the ruins of the city.

Monument Milletiň Ogullary

The Sons of the Nation monument depicts a mother waiting for her husband and sons.

Dedicated to the memory of the heroes who died during the battle near Geok Depe in 1881; where upwards of 15 thousand Turkmen were slaughtered by Russians in their conquest to expand the Russian Empire.

Monument Baky şöhrat

The eternal glory memorial to those who fell in the 1941–1945 Great Patriotic War until 2014 was called "The eternal flame" and stood in the centre of Ashgabat then with the opening of this complex was dismantled and rebuilt, though with significant design changes as well as the name change.

Now 5 pinnacles rise to a height of 90ft, standing on an eight pointed star base that contains an "eternal flame". (and if you squint you can just make out one of the military guards standing erect in his shelter)

Watan Mukaddesligi Museum

Well the walls anyways.

This modern museum was constructed to tell the stories of the three important periods and events in Turkmenistan's history that are represented by the three monuments.

The Battle of Geok Tepe
World War II
The massive earthquake of 1948.

I walked in and yes, you have guessed it. It was deserted, then all of a sudden I was approached by a number of "officials", startled I think that some strange bloke had walked in! through broken english , them not me, it was explained that yes, the museum was open, but I would have to be escorted around, alas the only available guide spoke only Russian.

Cheers Comrade, off I shall jolly well fuck then

Along the walls of the Museum of are friezes with scenes from The Battle of Geok Tepe.

It was interesting that unlike many white marble buildings in Ashgabat, the memorials are constructed out of red stone and marble.

One of the 15 bronze reliefs has been officially registered as “The Largest Bronze Bas Relief of the World” by Guinness World Records.

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