A Journey Through History from Monteriggioni to Siena

After San Gimignano, we turned our route to Monteriggioni. I visited Monteriggioni a year ago and shared it with you all. With its narrow streets, walls and that openair museum feel, it had left a wonderful impression on me. Last time we went by car, walked over to the main square to see the historic church and tasted local Sandrivu wines at a spot near the well in the square. Then we took a short walk along the walls. We just stood there in awe, watching how modern life seamlessly blends in with that medieval vibe. I was so excited to go back to this charming town that holds such a special place in my heart. As we continued our walk, a Signora invited us for coffee. It was such a warm welcome.

On the way, we reached a pool with thermal water. This is Le Vene delle Onze. The water was around 19 degrees. We could see the bubbles.It was packed with salt and minerals. Even the Etruscans were swimming in these thermal waters three thousand years ago. There I was completely wiped out and my knees were killing me. So we decided to just walk the ten km up to Monteriggioni and catch a car or train for the rest.

Just six km before Monteriggioni, we popped into this medieval vilage called Strove right on our path. The tenthcentury Church of San Martino is right there in the middle of the village. It was surrounded by all these historic spots like Castel Pietraio and Castel Bigozzi which used to host the noble Tolomei family back in the day. Built on the slopes of Montemaggio, this lovely vilage is a special spot well worth discovering on a Tuscan route, thanks to both its deep rooted history and peaceful atmosphere.

Continuing our walk we reached Monteriggioni. This place is a complete fortress. Even Dante mentioned these towers in the Divine Comedy. They were built during the wars between Florence and Siena. It was never conquered throughout its history. It only opened its gates once because a commander took a bribe. Back in the day people used to pay serious money to stay here safely. And thanks to its water reservoir the fortress could easily hold out against long sieges.

Then we drove over to Siena and started our tour at Piazza del Campo. The Palio horse races take place here twice a year. It is not just a sport. It means religion, war and identity. Siena is divided into seventeen neighborhoods called contrada. Each neighborhood has its own flag, color and patron saint. While the winning neighborhood celebrates all year long, a complete mood of mourning takes over the losing side.

We visited the Siena Cathedral. The cathedral Duomo di Siena, is incredibly impressive with its massive size. Its construction began in 1215. It was actually meant to be the biggest cathedral anywhere in the world. Then sadly the Black Plague hit and wiped out half the city. Then the money simply dried up, leaving the whole ambitious project completely abandoned. Those incomplete walls are still standing today.

The stone floor here is remarkable. It’s practically an art exhibition set in marble. These images are like an art gallery carved into stone. The Massacre of the Innocents panel is especially haunting to look at. They usually keep the floor panels covered to protect them, so they only uncover them during the summer.

Right off the main hall sits the Piccolomini Library, covered in vivid Pinturicchio murals. You'll find portraits representing the last of Byzantium, including Sophia Palaiologina, who famously wed Ivan of Moscow and brought the doubleheaded eagle emblem to Russia.

Michelangelo spent time sculpting a handful of statues for the cathedral as well. Then but he walked away midproject after being called to Florence for his famous David.

We also saw the the house where Saint Catherine of Siena was born. Catherine was a child from a family of 24 children. She started having visions when she was just a kid. And even took a vow of silence for three years. She ended up caring for the sick during the plague and even wrote letters to the Pope. Her skull is actually still on display as a holy relic in the Church of San Domenico.

Our next stop was San Quirico d'Orcia. I will cover that in my next post. See you soon.