San Quirico d'Orcia and Bagno Vignoni - Peaceful Stops along the Tuscan Route

After leaving Siena behind, our first stop was San Quirico d'Orcia. We didn't have a big plan, just wandered its streets for a while. It's one of those small Tuscan towns that somehow still feels quiet and untouched, sitting right along the old Via Francigena pilgrimage route. As you walk around you start noticing the details. Stone buildings that have clearly seen centuries pass by, a couple of churches going back to the twelfth century and then Horti Leonini, this lovely garden that's basically a little showcase of Italian garden design. And the famous Vitaleta Chapel that we often see in photos is also located within the borders of this town. With its quiet atmosphere away from the crowds, it became a great stop to take a short but enjoyable walking break before Bagno Vignoni.

From there we headed to Bagno Vignoni. This was one of the stops I was most excited about on the whole Tuscan route. It's just not like your typical town. And when we reached the center, we weren't greeted by the usual square lined with buildings. Instead right in the middle, there was a giant thermal water pool. Houses, cafés and old buildings all crowd right up around this big pool of water. There's no space between them, everything just opens straight onto it.

The moment we stepped into town, the first thing I noticed was just how quiet it was. Almost eerily so. The hot thermal water here has been emerging from the same place for centuries and continues to flow down from the edges of the pool toward the old water mills. Currently swimming or entering the water in this historic square pool is forbidden. The water is under complete protection as a historical monument. Stil I think even sitting by the water and watching this flow is enough to feel the atmosphere of the town.

I should mention that Bagno Vignoni also holds a special place for cinema enthusiasts. Many directors have chosen this town for their films. Actually this is the same town where Andrei Tarkovsky shot parts of his film Nostalghia. If you've seen it, you probably remember that scene. The one where the main character walks across the thermal pool, super slowly, trying to carry a lit candle all the way to the other side without it going out. Standing in the square and looking at the pool, it is impossible not to remember that scene and the unique atmosphere of the town that became the subject of movies.

Our original plan was actually to stay at the Adler Hotel again. We'd been there before and loved it. But we hadn't booked ahead and typical us, by the time we got there every room was taken. So we just walked over to Hotel La Posta instead, another spot that's pretty well known around town too. Even though we could not stay at Adler, La Posta was also a comfortable and pleasant option that allowed us to feel the historical texture. There was a very suitable environment here to drop off our belongings and rest at the end of the day.

Completing this long travel route that had been going on for days in Bagno Vignoni was a wonderful conclusion for me. When setting off, one usualy enters into great expectations or thinks they will feel something very different at the end of the road. But once we got here and had a minute to just stop and think, I realized things were actually a lot simpler than I'd been making them out to be.

In daily life we filter everything around us through our own experiences, emotions and let's be honest our prejudices too. That's exactly why the same event, even the same sentence, can land so differently depending on who's hearing it. The clearest thing the journey added to me was clearing my mind of these complex thoughts and expectations and being able to see the beauties around me as they are. Honestly, just living in the moment and not getting hung up on the little unnecessary stuff really does wonders for clearing your head.

If you ever find yourself heading through Tuscany, I really recommend adding Bagno Vignoni to your route after Siena. Between the unique architecture and that peaceful atmosphere, it's the perfect little spot to slow down and take a break.